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Texas Wine Journal

Pan-Mediterranean Shines at Anise at The Village with Chef Rene De Leon

texWineAdmin by texWineAdmin
September 28, 2022
0


The Village is among Dallas’ most renowned communities. Since its creation in 1968, it’s been a location for early 20-somethings to live and romp. While Dallas is dotted with prepared neighborhoods now, such as the Harwood District, downtown and Deep Ellum houses, The Village is the OG.

And as the area has actually developed over the years so have the features. The location just recently went through a significant redevelopment. Bulldozers removed old structures and in their location grew a glistening and fresh paradise with glossy brand-new homes, green areas, sports fields, a swimming pool with a swim-up bar, a store hotel and some noteworthy dining establishments.

We’ve frequently discussed Meridian, which is led by chef Junior Borges (who is likewise the VP of cooking at The Village), with a menu that shines a light on meals from his nativeBrazil It was contributed to our Top 100 Restaurants this year.

Just a stone’s toss from Meridian’s patio area is Anise, on the bottom flooring of the Drey Hotel, which opened in 2015 as part of the restoration. Here, a bar and dining-room are surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows, and restaurants can take pleasure in a pan-Mediterranean menu and a curated white wine program in a sensational area.

click to enlarge

The dining space is at the back of the hotel ignoring a yard location, the swimming pool and big trees.

Lauren Drewes Daniels

Chef Rene De Leon Jr was just recently revealed as the brand-new executive chef at Anise, and he made some modifications to the menu. De Leon formerly operated at Alinea in Chicago for 7 years, along with at Next and Aviary, likewise inChicago His resume consists of French Laundry (Napa Valley), Eleven Madison (New York City) and Noma (Copenhagen). More just recently has was an executive chef at the now-closed French dining establishmentBullion

One thing we enjoy about any location at The Village is the people-watching chances. The primary location is mostly pedestrian (one roadway that goes through was partly closed throughout our see) with a menagerie of individuals and activities. At completion of supper, no less than 50 Villagers were covering a group yoga session on the yard while others were out strolling their pet dogs.

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Bacalao fritters over a tomato aioli.

Lauren Drewes Daniels

We were just recently welcomed for a media sneak peek at Anise to attempt the brand-new menu. We began supper with bacalao fritters ($ 14), which are popular treats at markets inSpain A light and crisp crust holds cod and potatoes like a cinched handbag. Three of these are plated over a tomato aioli. Once cooled down, these are beautiful appetisers lightened up with a touch of lemon.

While the whipped ricotta topped with grilled fruit, pistachios and mint is a popular (and distinctive) starter at Anise, we rather opted for the hummus ($ 10) topped with a green chermoula, a spice-heavy paste-like relish with coriander, parsley and cumin including depth of taste and texture.

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Crispy octopus.

Lauren Drewes Daniels

Octopus ($ 22), from the little plates area of the menu, has paper-thin crispy crust that swaddles tender arms. It’s served in a bowl with Pimenton and gigante beans. This meal practically has a tapas feel– light and helpful for sharing little bites.

For a much heavier primary we opted for a lamb pressé ($ 38), braised lamb shoulder actually pushed into a rectangular shape served with a charred red muhammara dip that is both smoky and sweet. Tender portions of lamb fall from apart from the little piece with touch of fork. The meal is topped with crisp Moroccan carrots and okra. This, too, may be perfect to share at the table.

Chef De Leon got part of his motivation for this pressé while operating inDubai “When I tasted muhammara for the very first time, I understood I would not leave Dubai without the dish,” he states. “Since then, it has actually remained in my back pocket till getting to Anise.”

Back in Texas while preparing menu updates for Anise, he required a lamb meal, and he discovered a house for the muhammara.

“Chef Junior Borges and chef Nick Walker had actually tossed out some concepts for lamb preparations when we were talking about the meal, and pressé was among them,” De Leon describes. “At that point, I included field peas prepared just and crispy okra for color contrast and texture to the plate. The one spin I included was to switch pomegranate molasses typically discovered in muhammara with slow-roasted strawberries.”

The Mediterranean- focused white wine list is curated by sommelier Amelia Henderson, who started her profession as a maitre d’ at Gramercy Park, which becomes part of theUnion Square Hospitality Group While there, she took part in day-to-day white wine training sessions for the household of dining establishments, that included 11Madison Park On Wednesdays all by-the-bottle white wine choices at Anise are half off.

Chef De Leon is a prominent addition to the marquee at Anise, which has a fascinating menu and similarly spectacular area.

Anise: 5630 Village Glen Drive, 3 p.m.– 10 p.m. Tuesday– Thursday; 3 p.m.– 11 p.m. Friday; 10 a.m.– 3 p.m., 5– 11 p.m. Saturday; 10 a.m.– 3 p.m., 5 p.m.– 10 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday.



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